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A Magazine Curated By Erdem Moralioglu24
200
Virginia WoolfAugust SanderDerek JarmanEthan James GreenDara AllenCampbell AddyGabriella Karefa-JohnsonWilliam WaterworthAmanda HarlechTrinity EllisOla-Oluwa Ebiti
20Virginia Woolf1993Aubrey Beardsley189419971960
Glenn CloseTim BlanksSally Potter2Gugu Mbatha-RawRuth WilsonClaire FoyKeira KnightleySara MoraliogluKaye DonachieThomas Persson
A Magazine Curated By Erdem1
Fanny and Stella
Ethan James GreenDara Allen
Permanent Collection
Campbell AddyGabriella Karefa-Johnson2023
I See You: Friends, Family & Muses
2023Keira KnightlyClaire FoySheila AtimMaria BalshawLucy RogersPolly StenhamJames RightonLaura BurlingtonWendy DagworthyEzinma Mbeledogu
A Portrait of Queer History
National Portrait GalleryNicholas CullinanJames BaldwinCecil Beaton&Ines & VinoodhLGBTQAI+
Antakya
Olgaç Bozalp
BIG SKY
William WaterworthAmanda Harlech
Annemarieke van Drimmelen1
ERDEM2005
2021
201420152017H&M2018: Corybantic Games
100
A Magazine Curated By
A Magazine Curated By is pleased to announce that Erdem Moralioglu MBE has been invited to curate the 24th issue for the Autumn/Winter 2022-23 season.
Erdem calls upon his closest friends, family, artistic collaborators and brands to contribute cultural and creative content to the issue across 200 pages.
A Magazine Curated By Erdem is a cross-cultural, time-travelling exploration of Erdem Moralioglu's diverse range of sociological and aesthetic references that centres on the disruptive figures of crucial periods in our collective history. Game-changing figures from gender-bending Edwardian aristocrats to creative wunderkinds like Virginia Woolf, August Sander and Derek Jarman meet the gaze of contemporary image-makers from across the globe, including new commissions by Ethan James Green with Dara Photography by Ethan James Green Allen, Campbell Addy with Gabriella Karefa-Johnson, William Waterworth with Amanda Harlech, and Trinity Ellis with Ola-Oluwa Ebiti.
As a non-identical twin, Erdem reflects upon the themes of duality and mirroring, deconstructing the notion of twinning and the fluidity of gender in his exploration of Orlando by Virginia Woolf and the 1993 film by Sally Potter, as well as personal archives from Aubrey Beardsley’s The Yellow Book (1894-97) and the defunct queer magazine After Dark from the 1960s.ERDEM is an independent house of cultured fashion for women, based in London. Founded in 2005 by designer Erdem Moralioglu, the brand has forged its own path within the industry. Poetic and rigorous, ageless and timeless, powerful and versatile, Erdem’s world is an intriguing interplay of strength and beauty. At heart, Erdem is a storyteller. Collections are formed around a narrative championing heroic women at a particular place and a moment in time.
Erdem’s deeply personal dedication to the project can be witnessed throughout, with a series of interviews with Glenn Close, , Tim Blanks and Sally Potter, as well as two photographic series conducted by the designer himself, one featuring close friends, family, and muses from Gugu Mbatha-Raw, Ruth Wilson, Claire Foy and Keira Knightley to his twin sister Sara, partner Philip, tutors and godchildren. Another features principal dancers and artists from the Royal Ballet. In an ode to Erdem’s late mother, his sister Sara Moralioglu speaks to the acclaimed British painter Kaye Donachie on abstract figurative painting, followed by an arresting cyanotype study of the tulip by creative director Thomas Persson and photographer Annemarieke van Drimmelen.
Bursting with colour and life, A Magazine Curated By Erdem is a swirling celebration of fashion, photography, modern and contemporary painting, arthouse cinema, music and queer pop culture as seen from Erdem’s sophisticated, witty point of view.
KEY STORIES INCLUDE:
Fanny and Stella: the magazine’s cover portfolio photographed in NYC by Ethan James Green and styled by Dara Allen, featuring Erdem’s archives. The cover is accented by a green floral jacquard spine, embossing and gloss foil accents.
Permanent Collection: the Erdem Spring Summer 2023 collection photographed by Campbell Addy and styled by Gabriella Karefa-Johnson throughout the Greek and Egyptian rooms of the British Museum.
I See You: Friends, Family & Muses: Erdem Moralioglu photographs a cast of close friends, family and artistic collaborators at his London studio wearing Spring Summer 2023 and archival pieces. Subjects include Keira Knightley, Claire Foy, Sheila Atim, Maria Balshaw, Ruthie Rogers, Polly Stenham, James Righton, Laura Burlington, Wendy Dagworthy, and Ezinma Mbeledogu.
A Portrait of Queer History: the National Portrait Gallery’s director Nicholas Cullinan muses on the institution’s collection of LGBTQAI+ photographic archives including works by or featuring James Baldwin, Cecil Beaton, Inez & Vinoodh, & more.
Antakya: A visual essay by the Turkish fine art photographer Olgaç Bozalp documented in Antakya, Turkey, tracing Erdem’s paternal heritage through the region in a series of street-cast portraits featuring a floral silk coat worn in many different ways by a cast of local characters.
Big Sky: A Brontë-inspired archival story photographed by William Waterworth and styled by Amanda Harlech in the moors of Shropshire.
Each magazine contains a 130x180mm limited-edition gloss print photograph by Annemarieke van Drimmelen.
ABOUT ERDEM
ERDEM is an independent house of cultured fashion for women, based in London. Founded in 2005 by designer Erdem Moralioglu, the brand has forged its own path within the industry. Poetic and rigorous, ageless and timeless, powerful and versatile, Erdem’s world is an intriguing interplay of strength and beauty. At heart, Erdem is a storyteller. Collections are formed around a narrative championing heroic women at a particular place and a moment in time.
Erdem’s fashion is dramatic, atmospheric and expressive in the service of emotion: it is not what she wears, but how she feels that matters. His menswear, recently launched in 2021, explores the interplay of contrasting elements and opposing feelings: pieces are louche but highly crafted; elegant and comfortable; grungy yet refined simultaneously. The mood is languid with an underlying passion.
ERDEM is erudite, underpinned by a belief in the power and skill of craftsmanship. Mind and hand work together to bring imagination to life with precision, artistry and the compelling dexterity of the handmade. Respect for traditional skills is combined with an excitement for innovation, in technique and application.
In 2014, Erdem received the British Fashion Council’s Womenswear Designer of the Year award.
In 2015, his flagship store opened on South Audley street in Mayfair, London.
In 2017, Erdem created a collection with H&M featuring campaign visuals by acclaimed film maker Baz Luhrmann.
In 2018, Erdem designed costumes for the ballet ensemble performing in Christopher Wheeldon's Corybantic Games at the Royal Opera House in London.
ERDEM’s collections are sold in over 100 global retail partners worldwide, including Bergdorf Goodman, Selfridges, 10 Cosmo Como, Le Bon Marché, Isetan, Joyce, Net-A-Porter, Matchesfashion, Mytheresa and Ssense.
